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Cut
The cut of a diamond is probably the most important of the four Cs and the only element that can be affected by human intervention. It is also the most challenging of the 4 Cs to grasp.
The brilliance of a diamond depends almost exclusively on its cut. A good cut gives a diamond such fire that the brightness seems to emanate from its very heart.
A diamond cutter needs to position each of the stone’s facets or sides in specific geometric alignment to achieve the maximum reflection of light that causes a diamond to sparkle.
Now, here is a caveat. Cut must not be confused with shape. Shape refers to the outward appearance of a diamond. It may be round, square, oval, marquise, emerald, or pear shaped. Cut refers to the reflective qualities of a diamond, not its shape.
When a diamond is cut beautifully, light enters through the table (top surface), travels to the pavilion where it gets reflected from side to side, before totally internally reflecting back out of the diamond through the table. This light causes the scintillating fire-and-dazzle effect of a diamond to the observer’s eye.
When a diamond is not cut well, a part of the light entering through the table could, on reaching the facets, dissipate through the sides or bottom of the stone rather than reflecting back to the viewer. If it is cut too deep, light is lost through the sides whereas if it is cut too shallow, light leaks out through the bottom of the stone. Less light reflected back naturally means less brilliance.
Gemologists will tell you that the best cut diamonds follow a set of formulae designed to bring out the greatest amount of sparkle in a diamond. These formulae concern the proportions of a diamond – for example those between the depth and the diameter, or between the table diameter and the stone diameter.
There are several grading methods to help customers identify the cut of a diamond. For example: –
Ideal: Intended to maximize brilliance in round diamonds, this cut disperses the ‘fire’ magnificently. For the discerning customer, the finest thing money can buy. Premium: Though slightly less expensive, a premium cut round diamond can give many ideal cut diamonds a run for their money. This cut too maximizes brilliance. Very Good: These diamonds reflect most of the light entering them. Here the cutter has traded off some sparkle for a larger size. Priced slightly below premium cut diamonds. Good: These diamonds reflect much of the light entering them, their proportions outside the preferred range in order to create the largest possible diamond from the rough crystal. Provides cost saving to customers without sacrificing quality. Fair/Poor: Such a diamond reflects a small portion of the light entering it. Cut to maximize carat weight, these are typically found in retail mall jewellery stores.
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