Gemstones

Gemstone Education

Like flowers, coloured gemstones come in every hue, tone, and saturation. Both are born of the earth and evolve into something exquisite. They are warm. They are cool. They are beautiful. But unlike flowers whose beauty fades with time, the beauty of gemstones is everlasting. Fine gemstones of natural origin have been valued for centuries as objects of beauty and desire. Gemstones offer an infinite world of splendour, rarity, romance, and mysticism that only nature can create. The variety of shapes and colours available in natural gemstones opens a never-ending range of fashion statements for you and your loved ones.

What is a gemstone?

In order to be classified as a gemstone, a naturally occurring mineral (e.g. garnet) or organic material (e.g. pearl) must possess beauty, rarity, a reasonable degree of durability, and value.

What Cuts are Gemstones available in?

Gemstones are available in an incredible range of cuts, shapes, and styles thanks to the creativity and aesthetic finesse of gemstone cutters. Traditional shapes include round, oval, pear, marquise, and emerald cuts. Other popular styles of coloured gemstones include the versatile cabochon (rounded, non-faceted forms) and fancy cuts which offer incredible variety and exceptional shapes.

How Is Value Determined?

The value of a gemstone is determined by a combination of its colour, clarity, cut and rarity. While clarity and cut affect the overall value of a gem, colour has the greatest impact on the quality. Generally, a coloured gemstone of pure and vibrant colour is the rarest and most valuable.

Which Gemstone Is The Best To Buy?

The most important consideration when selecting a gemstone is your pleasure from its possession. You should choose a stone that fits your lifestyle and possesses a colour you find attractive. Whatever gemstone you choose, you will want to buy the best quality you can afford.

Where Are Gemstones Found?

Gemstones are mined in many countries throughout the world. Most gems are extracted from minerals which form in the earth when elements combine with heat and/or pressure to develop crystals. Only a very small percentage of these natural crystals are fine enough to be considered gemstones. Some gems, such as pearl and amber, form through the activity of a living animal or plant. They however share one common trait; all natural gemstones are a true wonder of nature.

Where Should You Buy Coloured Gemstones?

Consult a reputable jeweller, such as Breslauer & Warren Jewellers of Calgary, Alberta whom you know and trust. If you don't know one, it is wise to obtain referrals from friends. Check the qualifications of a jeweller carefully before you make a purchase.

Colour Variations

Gemstones offer a wide variety of colour choices.

Single Colour such gemstones come in only one colour, with variations within that one colour - for example ruby occurs in red, with slight variations of colour.
   
Various Colours these gemstones occur in more than one colour - for example garnets are found in red, pink, purple, orange, yellow, and green.
   
Multi-colour such gems may contain more than one colour simultaneously in one stone - tourmaline can show two or three different hues in a single gemstone.
Amethyst

Amethyst, birthstone for the month of February, is a traditional gift for couples celebrating their sixth anniversary.  The colour of Amethyst has long been associated with passion and hope.  Wear Amethyst as an amulet and it will protect you from intoxication and evil spells. It will calm your spirit and give you focus. Amethyst, cherished for its beauty, affordability and durability, is the most popular variety of the mineral quartz.  Most gemstones, including diamond, need enhancement through cutting or treatment to be enjoyed in a piece of jewellery.  Occasionally, Amethyst is heated to permanently purify its purple hue. Amethyst is an excellent choice for everyday wear, but it is recommended to be removed before activities which may cause scratches.  With proper care, your amethyst can be passed down the generations.

Aquamarine

March's Birthstone, named for the Latin term for sea water, Aquamarine has been credited with providing courage, curing laziness and sharpening the intellect.  Among various peoples, it had the reputation of providing happiness and everlasting youth. Water in which an aquamarine had been soaked was believed to cure eye troubles and stop hiccups. Legends say that it is the treasure of mermaids, with the power to keep sailors safe at sea.  Aquamarine is said to be a particularly strong charm when immersed in water, which may explain why sailors took to them so faithfully on rough seas. Aquamarine was also said to have a positive influence on romantic relationships, especially of married couples, by smoothing out differences.  This may have led to its popularity as an anniversary gift.  Aquamarines are also cited in modern "gem therapy" as a cure for headaches and a talisman for attracting new friends. Like emeralds, Aquamarines are members of the beryl family, a crystal mineral form of aluminum and beryllium. Aquamarines however do not contain chromium, which gives emeralds their green colour. It is a quite a hard stone, measuring 7 on the Mohs scale.  Aquamarine ranges in colour from light blue to dark blue, sometimes with a hint of green.  Unlike emerald it is rarely prone to inclusions, and near-flawless gems are more common.  It is a very wearable, clear and brilliant gem and a good choice for all types of jewellery. Aquamarine is versatile – its subtle colour making it appropriate for both casual and formal jewellery.  It combines well with all jewellery metals; Gold can add a touch of warmth to the cool blue of the stone, while the mirror sheen of platinum or white gold will highlight the bluish hue. The versatility of its colour and its relatively low price make aquamarines popular choices for youth jewellery and casual fashion wear. Nowadays, Brazil is the most productive supplier of aquamarine.  The natural colour of Brazilian gems leans toward bluish-green. Other sources of Aquamarine are the African countries of Tanzania, Kenya and Nigeria, as well as Sri Lanka, Afghanistan and Russia.

Blue Topaz

Blue Topaz, a birthstone for December, is a talisman for the sign of Sagittarius.  It is an excellent gift for the 23rd anniversary.  Hold Topaz gently and it will cool the frenzy of your mind.  Keep Topaz at home and it will soak up the sunlight and radiate good health to all your family. Topaz comes in a sunset of colours from red-orange, pink, peach, orange-gold, yellow-brown as well as sky-blue.  Most gemstones, including diamond, need enhancement through cutting or treatment to become an exquisite piece of jewellery. Since the 1750's, Topaz has been heated to permanently achieve its "sunset hues". Topaz is also safely irradiated and heated to permanently produce brilliant shades of blue. Though Topaz is suitable for daily wear, it is best removed before engaging in activities such as sports, housework and gardening, as Topaz is sensitive to knocks.

Citrine

Citrine, a birthstone for November, is a talisman for the sign of Gemini and a perfect gift for the 13th anniversary.  Its colour is associated with light-heartedness and cheerfulness.  Wearing Citrine as a talisman will protect you and will focus your mind, emotions and intuitions into singular harmony. Like Amethyst, Citrine is a variety of the mineral quartz.  Citrine is frequently heated to permanently coax out its fiery gold colour. Prized for its beauty, affordability and durability, Citrine is an excellent choice for everyday wear.  Care for your Citrine by removing it before engaging in activities that may cause scratches, such as housework, gardening and sports.

Emerald

Emerald, May's birthstone, is among the most revered and expensive of all gemstones.  The name Emerald is derived from the Latin word for green – smaragdus, quintessential green in nature.  Its typical colour is a beautiful, distinctive hue known, in fact, as emerald green.  But Emerald can also be light or dark green, bright green or leaf green. The soothing green colour of Emerald was believed to have a calming, healing effect on those who wore it.  Used in the Middle Ages to foretell the future, Emerald also guarded against evil spirits and was believed to cure a range of ailments from poor eyesight to infertility. Historically, Emerald has been closely associated with love, since the ancient Romans dedicated this gem to Venus.  Emerald has also signified hope, new growth and eternal life since it is the "colour of spring." Today, most natural gem-quality Emeralds are produced in Colombia, Brazil and Zambia. Colombian Emeralds have long held the reputation as being the best, but Brazil is the world's largest producer.

Garnet

Garnet, January's birthstone, is one of the most exciting gems on the market.  This hard, durable and often very brilliant gem offers great versatility because of its variety.  Believed to represent faith, loyalty, truth and devotion, garnet is known as the stone of commitment. Most people think of Garnet as a single type of gem that is dark red in colour.  Actually, garnet is a gem family that spans a range of red, green, yellow, orange, purple and brown shades. In addition to an array of colours, garnet is found in a various sizes. Natural gem-quality Garnet varieties can be found in many parts of the world, including: South Africa, Zimbabwe, Tanzania, Madagascar, Kenya, Sri Lanka, Myanmar (Burma), Brazil, Argentina, Australia, Bohemia, Russia, Pakistan, India, Canada, Mexico and the United States (Arizona, Virginia and California). To clean Garnet, use warm soapy water and a soft brush. An ultrasonic cleaner is safe for most Garnets. We do not recommend using steam to clean garnet.

Iolite

Iolite, the gemstone of clear vision, possesses the power to guide lost sailors.  While today we are not limited by tradition, the symbolism of Iolite is treasured as a gemstone to celebrate one's 21st anniversary. Because of the soft, almost liquid, violet-blue hue of Iolite, it is sometimes mistakenly referred to as "water sapphire."  Though not a Sapphire, Iolite derives its name from the Greek word ios meaning violet.  Iolite's most distinctive characteristic is its pleochroic property, which is the display of different colours when viewed from different directions similar to a modern-day polarized filter used in sunglasses. As all gemstones, protect your Iolite from scratches and sharp blows.  Clean your Iolite jewellery by immersing it in lukewarm soapy water and using a small, soft brush or a home ultrasonic, steam or jewellery cleaner.

Opal

Opal, October's birthstone, is the bearer of good fortune.  When the universe was completed, God scraped together all the colours on his palette and created this gemstone of mystical, flashing hues.  The Romans revered Opal as a symbol of hope, fidelity, purity, and good fortune and held it to be second only to the prized emerald. Opal is a non-crystalline gem that is formed in the ground when silica is liquefied and washed into fissures in the surrounding rock where it solidifies into a hardened gel. Tiny silica spheres create a pattern in Opal that causes a prism-like effect and produces flashes of colour. Natural Opal can be of several types: White Opal, the most common on the market, has a transparent or white body colour with vibrant pastel flashes of rainbow colour. Black Opal has a blue, gray or black body colour that reveals a more dramatic play of colour.  Boulder Opal is most often black with some of the ironstone matrix in which it occurred still intact.  Crystal or water Opal is a transparent, colourless opal that contains brilliant flashes of colour floating within it.  Fire Opal is transparent or translucent with a yellow to orange to red body colour that may or may not have a play of colour. On the Mohs scale of hardness, opal ranks 5-6.5.  This rather porous gem is brittle and fragile.  Thought should be given when designing jewellery that protects the stone from harsh wear. Today, 95% of the world's Opal is mined in Australia, known for producing the most spectacular Opals on the planet.  White Opal is also produced in Brazil.  Fire and Crystal Opal is found in Mexico and the United States (Nevada). Use a soft dry or damp cloth to clean your Opal.  In fact, you could also rub the gem periodically with cloth moistened with olive oil to help preserve it.  Do not soak your Opal in chemicals or use mechanical cleaners.  Avoid heat and dry conditions that could dehydrate and crack your opal.  Treat it with care to prevent sharp blows and scratches. Avoid impacts.

Peridot

Peridot, also known as olivine, is August's birthstone.  It is found in varying shades of olive green, yellow-green, brownish-green, but the most valued colour is a lively lime green.  Peridot is usually lighter in hue than emerald, and has a more velvety colour rather than a brilliant one. On the mohs hardness scale peridot ranks 6.5 - 7.0. Peridot is an excellent decorative gem, often used as a side stone for more expensive center stones. Their relative affordability makes them popular among those who cannot afford emeralds or sapphires. The largest source of gem-quality Peridot is believed to be in the mesas on one of the reservations of the Apache Natives in Arizona, but Peridot is also mined in St. John's Island, Zebirget Island, Red Sea (Egypt), Norway, Eifel, Germany, Hawaii, Myanmar (Burma), and Italy.  Peridots from Mogok, Burma, are reputed to be the largest, although Pakistani gems are said to be the best.
Peridot has enjoyed a mystical reputation that ascribes to it powers like warding off anxiety, enhancement of speech articulation, and success in relationships and marriage.  Ancient Egyptians called Peridot "the gem of the sun" because it was supposedly too bright to be visible in the sunny Egyptian desert.  Peridot was believed to have the power to dissolve enchantments.  To exert its full potential, the stone was set in gold. If it was to be used to protect the wearer from evil spirits, it had to be pierced, strung on the hair of a donkey, and worn on the left arm! As a medical remedy, it was powdered to cure asthma.  Holding a Peridot under the tongue was supposed to lessen the thirst of a person suffering from fever.

Ruby

Ruby, July's birthstone, is rightly named the King of Precious Gemstones.  Both the Bible and ancient Sanskrit writing depict the ruby as the most precious of all gemstones. The name Ruby is derived from the Latin word for red, rubrum.  Its colour varies from purplish and bluish red to orange-red in medium to dark hues. Sister to sapphire, Ruby is known in the mineral world as corundum, which is a crystal structure composed of aluminum oxide.  Only red corundum is Ruby, all other corundum colours are classified as sapphire.  Ruby is considered the most valuable variety of the corundum.  In fact, large Rubies have consistently brought higher prices per carat at auctions than the most flawless, colourless diamonds!  This is primarily due to the rarity of gem-quality rough ruby. The most famous source for natural gem-quality ruby is Myanmar (Burma).  Good stones have also come from Thailand, Sri Lanka, and most recently, Vietnam.  Rubies are also mined in Africa, Afghanistan, and Central Asia, but these mines have yet to yield a significant source of good rough stones.  Many of the best Ruby cutting and polishing traditions are in the Thailand, and much of the international trade of finished stones takes place in Bangkok. On the Mohs scale of hardness, ruby ranks 9, sharing status with sapphire as the hardest in the gem world after diamond.  It is considered very durable, a great choice for rings and bracelets that are prone to knocks.  Although Ruby is not as brilliant as diamond, it has outstanding lustre.  Like sapphire, Ruby may be found in a translucent variety that may display a six-rayed star effect when cut into a cabochon (dome) shape. You can clean treated or untreated rubies the same: with soapy water or a gentle commercial solvent and a brush.  Mechanical cleaners are also safe, except with heavily included gems. The colour of the heart, Ruby has inspired passion and romance for centuries.  Ruby has the power to stimulate sexual desire and energy.  This gem was thought to attract and maintain love and friendship.  It's a great choice for an engagement ring. Also the colour of blood, Ruby has come to symbolize courage and bravery.  According to legend, warriors implanted rubies under their skin to bring valor in battle.  As a talisman Ruby would warn its owner against danger and disaster.  It was also said to cure blood diseases and stop bleeding, ensure good health and bring peace.

Sapphire

Sapphire, September's birthstone, has been the most excellent blue gemstone for centuries.  Ancient Persian rulers believed its reflection painted the heavens blue. Indeed, its very name in Latin, sapphirus, means blue. While Sapphire has become the ultimate blue stone, it actually comes in virtually every colour except red (red sapphires are rubies), including colourless and white, and such fancy colours as yellow, peach, orange, cognac, pink, violet, purple and green and all their many shades.  In fact, white sapphire has become a popular natural diamond substitute for many people.  Moreover fancy coloured Sapphire often provides an alternative to other gems in similar colours that are less durable.  It is considered the most important and versatile of the gem families. Sapphire, sister to ruby, is known in the mineral world as corundum, which is a crystal structure composed of aluminum oxide.  On the Mohs scale of hardness, Sapphire ranks 9, the highest in the gem world after diamond.  It is considered very durable, a great choice for rings and bracelets that are prone to knocks.  Although Sapphire is not as brilliant as diamond, like rubies it has striking lustre.
Natural gem-quality sapphire is found in many parts of the world, but the rarest gems are from Kashmir and Myanmar (Burma), most prized because their colour is closest to pure spectral blue.  Fine sapphire is also produced in Sri Lanka in limited supply, both in blue and fancy colour.  Sapphire is also found in Thailand, Cambodia, Tanzania, Madagascar, Australia and the United States (Montana). Perfect natural gems, in colour and appearance, are very rare and expensive. Controlled heating is commonly used in the trade to produce, intensify or lighten colour and/or improve clarity in many gems including blue and fancy Sapphire.  This allows the trade to bring more, better quality gems to the market.  Heat enhancement is permanent and stable.  You can clean heated (and non-enhanced) Sapphire with soapy water or commercial solvent and a brush.  Mechanical cleaners are also safe, except for heavily included gems (filled with fissures). Heavenly Sapphire has historically been associated with the sacred and the divine, guardian of innocence and bestower of truth.  This gem was believed to attract divine favour to its owner.  It was used as a talisman to protect travelers, ward off illness, and bring peace, joy and wisdom.  Sapphire is known as the stone of prosperity.


Tanzanite

Tanzanite, a relative newcomer to the gemstone market, may lack in rich gem legend and lore but it has rapidly won the discerning public's love since its discovery some 40 years ago. No recent gemstone discovery has had more of an impact on the world gemstone market than Tanzanite.  This precious gemstone was discovered in Tanzania in 1967 while searching for sapphire.  Tanzanite was named after its country of origin by Henry Platt, vice president of Tiffany & Co. in New York, one of the world's most influential jewellers who began an aggressive marketing campaign to introduce Tanzanite to the public in the 1980s. Tanzanite's mass appeal lies in its great colour, a mixture of two gem favorites: sapphire and amethyst.  Popular for its rich violet blue to purple tones, Tanzanite has tonal depth comparable to sapphire. Rarely found in a pure blue, Tanzanite almost always displays purple overtones. Tanzanite crystals naturally occur in various colours: yellow, golden brown, green and blue (but rarely).  On the Mohs scale of hardness, Tanzanite ranks 6-7.  This gem is considered relatively soft and thought should be given when designing jewellery to protecting the stone from harsh wear. Warm soapy water and a soft brush is your best bet to clean Tanzanite.  Do not use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  Avoid contact with acids and sudden temperature changes (as may occur in some jewellery repair and design work). Although it is not a birthstone, Tanzanite is a recommended gift for couples celebrating their 24th wedding anniversary, according to contemporary jewellers' anniversary gemstone lists.

Tourmaline

Tourmaline occurs in every colour of the rainbow and in combinations of two or three colours.  Bicolour and tricolour Tourmalines, with bands of colours are very popular. Sometimes the colours are at different ends of the crystal and sometimes there is one colour in the heart of the crystal and another around it on the outside. One colour combination, pink center with a green rind, is called "watermelon tourmaline". Important sources include Elba, Brazil, Russia, Sri Lanka, and parts of the U.S. Tourmaline scores a 7.0 on the Mohs scale.  Tourmalines of almost every colour can be found in Brazil, especially in Minas Gerais and Bahia.  Pink and green colours are particularly popular. Pink and green Tourmalines are now widely available and are especially popular in designer jewellery.  Blue tourmalines are also very much in demand but the supply is more limited.  Rubellite Tourmalines, which come in a ruby red colour, are very popular as ruby alternatives.  Tourmalines are most often cut in long rectangular shapes because of the long and narrow form of the crystal.  Tourmaline crystals are beautiful, pencil thin and ridged, and they are also sometimes set in jewellery. Tourmaline's name comes from word "turmali," which means "mixed."  Tourmaline, occurring in more colours and combinations of colours than any other gemstone variety, lives up to its name.  There is a tourmaline that looks like almost any other gemstone!  Many stones in the Russian Crown Jewels from the 17th Century once thought to be rubies are actually tourmalines.

Birthstone List
January: Garnet, Rhodolite   July: Ruby, Carnelian
         
February: Amethyst   August: Peridot
         
March: Aquamarine, Bloodstone   September: Sapphire
         
April: Diamond   October: Opal, Pink Tourmaline
         
May: Emerald   November: Citrine, Topaz
         
June: Alexandrite, Pearl, Moonstone   December: Blue Zircon, Turquoise, Lapis Lazuli
Anniversary Gift List
1st Gold Jewellery   14th Opal or Moss Agate   30th Pearl Jubilee
               
2nd Garnet (all colours)   15th Ruby   35th Emerald or Coral
               
3rd Pearls   16th Peridot or Topaz (all colours)   39th Cat's Eye
               
4th Blue Topaz   17th Amethyst   40th Ruby
               
5th Sapphire (all colours)   18th Garnet   45th Sapphire or Alexandrite
               
6th Amethyst   19th Aquamarine   50th Golden Jubilee
               
7th Onyx   20th Emerald   52nd Star Ruby
               
8th Tourmaline (all colours)   21st Iolite   55th Alexandrite or Emerald
               
9th Lapis Lazuli   22nd Spinel (all colours)   60th Diamond Jubilee
               
10th Diamond   23rd Sapphire   65th Star Sapphire
               
11th Turquoise   24th Tanzanite   75th Diamond
               
12th Jade or Agate   25th Silver Jubilee      
               
13th Citrine or Moonstone   26th Star Sapphire      
               


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