breslauer& warren

Gold Education

There is a timeless quality about gold. With a history nearly as old as human civilization, gold still excites the kind of adulation that it has done for millennia. It has over the years become synonymous with wealth and splendour; been the hard currency to the world; found prominent place in epics and bibles. But most of all it has been a complement, and also a compliment to the beauty of the female form.

Gold Quality

The purity of gold is measured in karats, 24 karat being considered pure gold. Pure gold is naturally resistant to corrosion, ample proof being that it is one of the rarest metals that occur in nature in elemental form. Different alloys of gold are used in jewellery for greater strength, durability and colour range.
The "K" or karat of the jewellery will tell you what percentage of gold it contains: 24kt is 100%, which roughly works out to 1 Kt equals 4.166%. So 19kt is 79.17%, 18kt is 75%, 14kt is 58.33% and 10kt is 41.66% of gold.
When comparing gold jewellery, the higher the number of karats, the greater the purity and therefore the value. However, higher levels of gold purity make the ornaments softer and less durable.

Karat Marks

When buying gold jewellery, always look for the karat mark. All other factors remaining the same, the higher the karat, the more expensive the piece. Nothing less than 10 karat can legally be marked or sold as gold jewellery in North America. In addition to the karat mark, every piece of gold jewellery should be stamped with a hallmark or trademark of its maker, and sometimes its country of origin. These designations assure you that you are buying genuine gold jewellery.

Gold Colour

Yellow gold is alloyed with silver and copper. It is the most commonly used type of gold there is. Malleable, ductile, and generally non-corrosive, it has a high melting point and is not susceptible to compression.
White gold is alloyed with a large percentage of silver, or a selection of other white metals such as nickel. The percentage of gold naturally varies, with the amount of other metal used. White gold is highly reflective and not easily tarnished. The ancient term for white gold was Electrum. Its use predates that of Palladium and Platinum. Customers frequently ask what causes a yellow tint in white gold, and if the tint is normal, and whether they should switch to palladium white gold or some other metal for their jewellery.

Most white gold alloys do have a yellow tint, some more than others based on the percentage of nickel they contain. Nickel is a metal which is mixed or alloyed with gold to change its colour from yellow to white – the more nickel, the whiter the end result. Today, nickel content in white gold alloys range from 7% to 11%. In previous times, white gold alloys may have contained higher percentage of nickel and would also have been whiter.
So what has changed, and why is everyone making yellow white gold today? Surprisingly, the answer to these questions can be found on the shelves of supermarkets, in the dozens of cleaners and disinfectants containing corrosive chemicals like chlorine and bromine. White gold exposed to these chemicals corrodes quickly, leading to weakening of the prong and stone loss. The higher the nickel percentage is, the greater the risk of stress corrosion. In recent years, most manufacturers have lowered nickel content in order to improve durability and stone security. In the past, this was unnecessary as there were not as many of these corrosive products available to the consumers. So how can a manufacturer of jewellery achieve a truly white appearance, one free from a yellow tint? The answer to this problem is, in two words, “Rhodium Plating”. Rose gold is alloyed with a higher percentage of copper, and perhaps silver. The proportions are about one part of copper to three parts of 24-karat gold.

Pricing

Gold pricing is based on a number of factors, including purity (in karats), weight (in grams), design and craftsmanship. The karat and gram weight tell you how much gold there is in a piece, but don't rely on these alone to determine price. Remember, a price based solely on gram weight does not reflect the work that has gone into the piece.
Other equally important factors to consider are the jeweler’s construction and design. A well-made piece will give you years of wear and enjoyment and, if cared for properly, will last a lifetime. Unique design, intricate details, gemstones or a special clasp may add to the price.

Care

Gold is durable, sturdy, dependable, and makes an ideal setting for your precious diamond jewellery. However, to get a lifetime of enjoyment from your jeweller, be sure to keep it clean and safe.
Do not wear jewellery during rough work or when handling harsh chemicals. Store it in a fabric-lined box away from other pieces to preserve it from getting scratched. Finally, check the diamond settings periodically for any damage to the gold prongs or bezels. If you see a loose prong, or if the setting looks out of line, take it to a professional jeweller for repair as soon as possible.

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